Wine Column

Zinfandel is an all-American success story. Like a Horatio Alger hero, the Zinfandel grape has advanced from rags to riches Ð from a little-know grape to a grape grown on more than 50,000 acres in the United States.

Unlike Cabernet, Zinfandel vines need to be considerably older to produce the best fruit with the most intensity. Historians have traced the earliest plantings of Zinfandel in California to the 1850s when Gold Rush miners wanted a substantial beverage and growers hoped for a grape that would provide a healthy and substantial crop.

Perhaps the foremost champion of American Zinfandel is philosopher, winemaker and CEO of Ridge Vineyards Paul Draper. "In Angel Visits" by David Darlington, Henry Holt & Co, New York, 1991, a delightful inquiry into the mystery of Zinfandel, Draper tells us what he specifically likes about the grape he has worked with for more than 35 years.

"From day one, Zinfandel has so much forward fruit that it's sensual to drink right away. Its appeal is immediate, whereas Cabernet needs time to develop. You can have a very sensual experience with old Cabernet, but you can have a comparable experience with young Zinfandel - which is why, in a restaurant, I'd be more likely to order a Zinfandel than a Cabernet. The roundness and depth of flavor in Zinfandel is sheer joy, whereas the pleasure of Cabernet is more intellectual. You might say Zinfandel is romantic and Cabernet is baroque. Zinfandel is perhaps a full orchestra, where Cabernet is a chamber quartet."

With the possible exception of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel is the world's most versatile grape. It is a great wine tasting experience because it can be made in a diversity of styles from moderate claret-like table wines to alcoholic blockbusters and dense, rich port-style wines. The slightly sweet, soda-pop-like wine called White Zinfandel, made from the red Zinfandel grape, bears no resemblance to red Zinfandel and was not included in the tasting.

Faced with many possibilities, the Bonanza wine panel assembled at Big Water Grille with Frank Cates from Southern Wines & Spirits (Tahoe Vin Man) and four guest tasters. Regular panel members: Curmudgeon (Cur); Label Reader; and Princess of Incline were joined by Merry and Tarry Zinner, SinZin and Zinbad. The mission: to explore the many mysteries of Zinfandel.

On the sun-drenched deck overlooking Lake Tahoe, they began to swirl and sniff a 2001 Blockheadia California Zinfandel. The name comes from grapes sourced from specific vineyard "blocks." At 14.4 percent alcohol, the tasters were prepared for a moderate claret-style. After some time in the glass to blow off initial strong alcohol, the wine came around and did not disappoint.

It was ruby-red in color with light fruit and complex aromas of spice, berries, and black pepper. The group found flavors of spice, cherries, raspberries, earth, and more black pepper.

"Lovely and well-balanced with low acidity," noted Cur. "Excellent for drinking now and should last a few more years," he said. SinZin weighed in. "Lots of fruit and lots of character. Young, but impetuous. It will improve with some age," he declared. After tasting the other wines, Cur pronounced the Blockheadia "the best value of the lot at $20."

Next up was the Karly "Warrior Fires" 2002 from Amador County, which was grown in soil blackened by a thousand years of Native American campfires - hence the name Warrior Fires, explained Vin Man. The color was a brilliant, deep burgundy. Tasters noted heavy, dense aromas and tastes of toasty, burnt wood, berries and mushroom. While most tasters were split in their opinions, Princess voted thumbs down. "Stale, chemical and dusty!" she announced, turning up her nose.

M. Zinner disagreed. "A big mouth-filling, tasty wine . . . a bit sharp on the palate, but a smooth finish," she said. SinZin added, "it will be even better with food." "Full bodied but a bit coarse," chimed Cur. "Ultimately a mediocre offering," sniffed Reader, who noted that the label offered no useful information. "Over $20 -- overpriced!" he declared. Most agreed the Karly compared poorly with the Blockheadia.

An intriguing tale preceded the next wine, an Edizione Pennino 2000 from the Napa Valley estate of Neibaum-Coppola. Vin Man explained that the wine was created in homage to Francesco Pennino, maternal grandfather of Frances Ford Coppola. A music composer and lyricist, Pennino founded a music publishing company called Edizione Pennino (translated as Pennino's Editions). The label replicates the company logo Ð a diamond on the left depicts the Bay of Naples, his last view of Italy; on the right diamond is the Statue of Liberty, his first view of America. Ever the showman, Coppola pays tribute to Pennino by placing the name of one of his songs on the cork of each vintage.

Story telling aside, the wine spoke for itself. Very deep red in color, almost purple/black, it was heavy with fruit aromas, hearty and full. Some tasters detected essence of chocolate and vanilla with lots of raspberry, and deep smoky flavors.

"Explosive on entry with a solid core of ripe black fruit and enough mineral and earth to carry the finish," exclaimed Vin Man. "I love this wine!" cooed Princess. "I'll have rosemary crusted lamb, herb roasted potatoes, and two bottles of this!" she announced. SinZin jumped on the bandwagon. "Jammy Ð oh yea! ... and a long finish Ð the best!" With overall ratings of +2 to +5, this was clearly the favorite. Cur thought it a bit pricy at $35, but "a lovely big wine." "I'd buy a case!" said T. Zinner.

The next wine was called simply The ZIN 2003 by Cosentino Wine Cellars, appellation California. Napa winemaker Mitch Cosentino is known for consistently well-made wines and The Zin is no exception.

The deepest color so far, it was a dark purplish burgundy, fruit forward, with toasty oak, almond, hazelnut and, according to one taster, an aroma "like an orchard of almond trees." Several tasters found it quite jammy with flavors of strawberries, blueberries, blackberries and butterscotch.

"Smooth and lovely," said T. Zinner. To the contrary, Cur pronounced, "not well-balanced." But Zinbad found it "fun and different with lots of nut and fruit flavors. It's great!" he exclaimed. Princess noted the wine's light body, not heavy or peppery. "Beginner Zinners would be good candidates for this wine," she declared. SinZin, M. and T. Zinner thought it was a good food wine with anything from barbecue to dessert, "especially chocolate!" Overall ratings averaged +2 to +4, making The Zin the group's second choice.

After much talk about chocolate and dessert, they advanced to the final wine, a 2003 Tahoe Ridge Late Harvest Zinfandel. Tahoe Ridge in Minden is Nevada's only commercial winery and this is their first foray into late harvest. All tasters agreed it was a success.

Measuring 32 degrees Brix at harvest, the wine has 10 percent residual sugar and 14.5 percent alcohol, on the low side for a dessert wine. Dark red, almost black in color, the tasters found aromas of cardamom, allspice, cinnamon, vanilla and berries.

"Delicious, smells like dessert!" exclaimed T. Zinner. "Quite sweet, but not cloying," noted Cur. "A great after dinner wine with fruit, cheese or chocolate. The finish is smooth and fruity," observed M. Zinner. "Port-like," noted Vin Man. "A safe port in any harbor," declared Zinbad (the sailor) with a smile. All agreed the price is right, too, $18 retail at the winery tasting room and marketplace in Genoa.

"Five distinctively different Zins," concluded Zin Man. "Just like all of us, all wines are different and have something unique to appreciate," he said.

Zinfandel has its very own appreciation society Ð ZAP, Zinfandel Advocates and Producers, www.zinfandel.org. Check it out for more on this intriguing and distinctly American grape.

In any language, Zinfandel is a great drink. Cheers! Chin Chin! Salud!